At last, Americans are buying seafood at the supermarket

Seventy percent of seafood sales are made at restaurants and other food-service establishments. So when America’s hospitality industry shut down, fish processors and distributors braced for the worst. Now, a few months in, they’re finding the silver lining in the coronavirus pandemic. People are cooking seafood as never before, with grocery sales of canned, frozen, and fresh product up dramatically from last year. Fish is hard to cook? It smells funny? Seafood purveyors tell restaurant critic Pete Wells that those excuses are on the way out.

The Counter Stories by our editors.