Few supermarket offerings are as nostalgic, as alluring, and as indelible as rotisserie chickens—those glistening, golden jewels of birds perpetually aglow under heat lamps—a product as mouth-watering as it is dirt cheap. Sometimes going for as low as $4.99, rotisserie chickens are often a loss leader at grocery stores, sold for less than they cost to entice shoppers to spend more overall. In turn, families across the country have found countless ways to turn a single bird into a week’s worth of meals, making them an economical option for budgets of all kinds. But the deal comes at a cost: To be competitive, production depends heavily on contract farming arrangements that disenfranchise producers, and processing plants where workers are at constant risk of injury (especially during a pandemic). Taste Cooking carves out the thorny, complex economic apparatus that keeps our cheap chicken flowing.
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