Texas taqueros are raising their taco prices—sometimes up to 25 percent—to survive the pandemic

Supply-chain issues continue to touch every facet of U.S. life, including the price of tacos. In the spring of 2020, Texas Monthly’s taco editor (yes, there is such a thing!), José R. Ralat, wrote that the earth’s most perfect food was “pandemic proof.” But as we enter year three of the virus, Ralat is re-evaluating his stance as the costs of everything from beef, avocados, and utensils rise. After multiple years of shouldering the increased costs and navigating low supplies, taqueros are raising their prices. Rolando Curiel, owner of the beloved Brownsville, Texas taqueria El Ultimo Taco, was losing $12,000 a week before he quietly raised the prices of his tacos in July. Jacqueline Anaya, owner of the Calisience taco truck in Fort Worth, explained that 80 pounds of meat, plus cheese, costs $500, which means she has to sell out of tacos each day to actually turn a profit. She increased her prices in December. While many people expect tacos to be cheap (despite pricey ingredients and labor-intensive prep), Texas customers have mostly been understanding and sympathetic. After all, in an environment where “taquerias, tiny family-owned restaurants, and food trucks are hanging on to a proverbial cliff by their fingernails,” Ralat wrote, “every taco counts.” —Tina Vasquez