Overlooking guests at the bar of the Standard Hotel in New York City is a bed of fungi, pink oysters, and lion’s mane mushrooms to be used in dishes and infused in cocktails. This shelf-to-table environment scrapes the mushroom supply chain but at what cost? Fungi, which is not classified as a plant or animal, has grown increasingly profitable with a projected market of $69 billion globally by 2024. From leading the way in meatless diets or embracing umami, to healing powers, psychedelic microdosing, and art-making, the mushroom wears multiple hats. For The New York Times Style Magazine, Ligaya Mishan writes about the future trajectory of the mushroom and humankind.
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