Decades before “plant-based” was a thing, this vegetarian market was selling mock duck, squid, and eel to New York’s Chinatown

Then, as the new millennium hit, vegetarianism suddenly became trendy. PETA and other animal activist groups started reaching out to May Wah about partnerships. Around then, May Wah also launched an e-commerce store—becoming one of the first Chinese grocers in the area to do so. “We just kind of blew up,” says Lily. Soon, the shop was packed with not just Buddhists and Taoists looking to stock up on mock duck, but vegetarians of all stripes.

By contrast, at May Wah, the chicken nuggets (made with soy protein) have the exact same fibers you’ve come to expect when pulling apart a McNugget. The shrimp, made with konjac, has that familiar curvy shape, pinkish hue, and soft crunch—plus the fishy taste of shrimp, thanks to the addition of seaweed. Even the drumsticks, also made with soy protein, have a bone in them (made of wood, of course). Craving shark fin? May Wah has you covered with its plant-based gelatin version.

The storefront started as a tiny, 400-square-foot space, and has slowly expanded throughout the years to over double that size. The lime green walls match the awning, the cash registers are decorated by string lights, and the shelves are meticulously organized by product type—jerky, seafood, hams, bacons—each package adorned with a different-colored label. Interestingly, the section dedicated to tofu—the most well-known meat substitute in Asian cuisine to many—is by far the smallest.

Every year, Lily and her mother go to Taiwan to meet with Chin Hsin Foods, discuss potential new products, and test prototypes. On a recent trip, they tried out an egg yolk substitute made of soybean and tofu. “That was really, really bad,” says Lily, making a face. “The texture and taste was really weird. We were like, ‘No, this is not going to sell at all.’”

Over time, the customer base has expanded beyond just Asian customers. Lily says that the shop now works with a variety of individuals, restaurants, and grocers. One of her favorite parts of her job, she says, is seeing how creative different people get with the product. Guyanese people, she says, use May Wah’s mutton (made of mushroom) to make a version of oxtail stew, and the spot prawns to make coconut shrimp. Indians use the mock chicken to make biryani and korma. One particularly inventive customer thinly sliced the mock pork belly (the white, fatty layer is made of konjac, and the meat layer is made of soybean), smoked it, and made prosciutto.

As mainstream, American discourse on vegan food remains primarily dominated by white people, Lily is quick to clarify that while the store does serve a broad audience, “we are in Chinatown, so we want everything to be most convenient and recognizable to Asian communities.” This ranges from the types of products to the look of the store to the languages spoken by the staff. “Our top priority is our products, which are Asian food,” she adds.

Richard Lau, who owns Panda Garden in Williamsburg, Massachusetts, heard of May Wah through a friend. When he sold a version of General Tso’s Chicken made with May Wah’s textured soybean-based mock chicken, the dish was so popular with customers that he created an entire vegetarian menu centered around the market’s mock meats. He claims that the meat-free menu at one point accounted for 30 percent of all sales at the restaurant. “I’m not even a vegetarian, but the taste is very good, pretty healthy, and so close to real meat,” he says.

As vegan food only grows more popular, business at May Wah has been steady, says Lily, and the shop continues to introduce new products. The Ngs are working on rolling out more gluten-free items, made with mushrooms and konjac instead of soybeans, to keep up with current trends. You can now buy mock barbecue ribs, scallops, and soon, crab cakes, at the store.

The Ngs don’t feel threatened by forces such as the Impossible Burger and other Silicon Valley-backed creations, either. “My mom finds it hilarious and fascinating that all these people are just making burgers,” says Lily. “She is like, ‘Why don’t they make other stuff?’ Yeah, you all can do burgers. We’ll make everything else.”

This story was originally published by Atlas Obscura.