Last month, the venerable James Beard Foundation announced it was canceling its annual awards. The nominating committee needed to rid itself of “systemic bias,” and as others reported, despite a recent focus on racial and gender diversity, Black chefs and restaurants were still being shut out. That’s exactly what Beard himself would have wanted, says John Birdsall, author of a forthcoming biography. “Whatever his sins,” he writes for The Washington Post, “he always championed an expansive, democratic notion of food.” Celebrating an industry backed by deep-pocketed investors? Awards shows hosted by Robin Leach, with “limited-production Napa cabs swirled in voluminous glasses”? No thanks.
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