In Michigan, a morel dilemma

Some background: The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a federal Food Code in 2009 that required any forager selling wild mushrooms be an “approved mushroom identification expert.” That echoes language from a similar set of rules introduced in 1993. But it turns out that it’s not so easy to define a mushroom expert, and compliance with the code has been spotty. State agriculture departments have so far been left to their own devices to decide what qualifies an “expert” and how to certify foragers.

In Michigan, the FDA rule was largely ignored until recently—each spring, professionals and enthusiasts alike comb the woods searching for the elusive ‘shrooms, hoping to strike it rich. The scarcity that makes morels so expensive—in 2015, they retailed for $50 a pound in Michigan—has also made them much less of a food safety priority than, say, raw meat. “If you talk to folks up north, they never had a problem, nobody really bothered with it until a couple of years ago,” executive director of Midwest American Mycological Information Chris Wright told Michigan Radio in 2015.

But in 2014, the rule posed a problem during the National Morel Mushroom Festival, when Michigan restaurants had to resort to buying their morels from Oregon (which had a certification process in place) due to a lack of certified in-state foragers. The state hadn’t yet set up a system for designating mushroom experts. “Even though we had plenty of morels, we didn’t have anyone to certify them. So those restaurants couldn’t serve them,” Wright told Michigan Radio.

Crain’s Detroit described the situation as a Catch-22: “In Michigan, the catch would be if a state bureaucrat said you can’t sell something legally without a certification. And when you asked how you could get certified, the same bureaucrat said it was impossible, there was no certification process.”

So, in 2015, the state rolled out a program to help people become “approved mushroom identification experts” (mirroring FDA’s language) by taking a class that was offered in several different cities. The day-long class costs $175 and includes an exam. A forager has to show up for the class and get 80 percent of the exam questions right in order to receive an Expert Mushroom Identifier Card, which is good for five years. The cost to the forager comes out to about $35 per year, roughly the price of a pound of mushrooms.

But Rep. Triston Cole (R-MI) took issue with this requirement, minimal as it may seem. He told Michigan Radio it was a “solution in search of a problem” and introduced House Bill 5532 in April of 2016 to exempt morels from the certification rule. Morels, he argued, are easy to identify. Restaurants and foragers know what they’re doing, the logic goes, so why fix it if it ain’t broken?