Welcome to the New Food Economy GMO Bracketology 2016 Edition. We hope you have your pencils ready.
We start with an assumption, one you may not agree with: Over the next few years, we’re going to see the emergence of some form of food based on genetic engineering that offers consumers enough positives and avoids enough negatives to get them to set aside their “frankenfood” fears, maybe not for all GE food, but for that product.
I’m skeptical about the short-term prospects for almost any of the current and upcoming GMOs in Division One: products where you actually eat the modified organism. They’ll be around, and if people continue to be as diligent about reading labels as they have been, the products will be sold and consumed in processed foods, but it’s hard to see them winning hearts or minds. So let’s scratch Roundup-ready corn and soybeans.
Hot new contender in the division is the AquaAdvantage salmon, engineered by AquaBounty Technologies to grow quickly and produce roughly a pound of fish for a pound of feed. It has an interesting environmental argument, but its opponents have an environmental counterargument, and the authority under which FDA regulates the fish is pretty screwy. (The agency technically classes the salmon as a veterinary medicine rather than as a food.) Lawsuits are underway.
The Arctic apple, engineered not to brown, seems like a nonstarter. It makes sense for food service, but while there are advantages to being able to cut an apple well in advance of serving, there’s not much for the consumer to care about. The Innate potatoes being developed by J.R. Simplot sound like they have a stronger argument—consumers may not care about apples browning, but they might care for bruise-proof potatoes that will also reduce acrylamides in products like french fries and potato chips. Preserving the french fry: That’s something people can get behind. Such an advantage, however, is kind of technical and abstract. Advantage, potato. But not by much.
There have been a few ingredients in this division that have already made it to the grocery store, including rennet and a recombinant fish protein used in some ice creams to prevent the formation of ice crystals. Useful, but clearly not lovable. There’s Muufri, which is working on growing milk from cow genes implanted in yeast cells, and Clara Foods, which hopes to grow egg whites in yeast, and Gelzen, creator of a biotech, animal-free gelatin, among others.
Still betting on “never”? You could be right. But bear this in mind: The biotech engineers who are working on the next generation of “frankenfoods” care passionately about their discipline. They’re as persuaded that it’s necessary and inevitable as you are that natural, responsibly produced food is essential. And leaving aside silly developments like non-browning apples, they have some important global problems in their sights. You can bet against them, but remember, in this particular tournament, you’re not just filling out a bracket. You’re part of one. Even if you’re not a gambler, you have a stake in the finals.
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